When the shiitake hits the pan

One of the most umami-rich mushrooms is easier to find than ever

Not so long ago, shiitake mushrooms were found only in dried form in Western markets. But now, the fresh variety is now widely available in well-stocked supermarkets and natural foods stores.

That’s not to say that dried shiitakes are no longer useful; we’ll get to those further down this post.

Shiitakes are known for their umami quality, the “fifth taste” in Japanese cuisine (along with sour, sweet, bitter, and salty), loosely defined as the savory essence of deliciousness.

Fresh shiitake mushrooms are a little pricier than the common varieties (like white or cremini), but with their more intense flavor, a little goes a longer way.

(**Did you know that if you hit the heart at the top or bottom of this post, it helps others discover this publication? Thank you in advance!)

Dried or fresh, shiitakes are a favorite mushroom variety in several Asian cuisines, and as you’ll see in the recipes that follow, they’re put to good use where their lovely texture is most welcome. As usual in this Wednesday edition, I’ll present as many full recipes that Substack allows me to (usually two) before it starts complaining that this post is too long for email, and link you to lots more deliciousness.

See A Guide to Fresh Shiitake Mushrooms, the Ultimate Umami Ingredient for lots more tips and ideas. And make sure to scroll past these fresh shiitake recipes to explore some uses for dried shiitakes.

How to make vegan mushroom “bacon”

Mushroom “bacon” really is a thing in the vegan universe, and for me, fresh shiitakes are the best to make it with. Vegan Caramelized Onion Pizza with Shiitake Mushroom “Bacon” is just one of the uses for the recipe below.

This simple recipe infuses mushrooms with a bacon-y flavor with a few simple ingredients.

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 tablespoons maple syrup or agave

• 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

• 1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil

• 8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned and sliced

• 1 1/2 teaspoons barbecue seasoning (see Note)

Instructions

1. Clean and stem the mushrooms. Slice thinly; if the caps are large, cut them in half before slicing.

2. Combine the syrup, soy sauce, and oil in a medium skillet. Stir to combine.

3. When the mixture start to bubble, add the mushrooms and stir to coat. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until they begin to brown and get crisp here and there, about 8 minutes.

4. Sprinkle in the seasoning, and stir quickly to distribute. Cook for another minute or two over low heat, then remove from the heat.

Notes

Barbecue seasoning blends are readily available in the spice section of well- stocked supermarkets. One of the most commonly found brands is McCormick. This kind of seasoning comes in several varieties, including original Barbecue, Smoky Maple, Mesquite, and others. They’re all good; choose your favorite.

Swap-ins: No shiitakes on hand, but you can’t wait to make this? Choose from among cremini (AKA baby bella), portobello, oyster, and chanterelle mushrooms, all cleaned, stemmed, and sliced. Proceed with the above recipe.

Shiitake Mushroom Miso Gravy

This naturally plant-based gravy might just become a staple sauce for your cool-weather meals. It’s super easy to make, perfect to add umami and comfort to everyday meals. Serve this versatile shiitake mushroom miso gravy over sautéed tofu or tempeh, or to dress up mashed potatoes, green beans, greens, broccoli, cauliflower, and root vegetables.

This recipe makes about 2 cups of gravy.

Ingredients

• 1 cup low-sodium vegetable broth, or water

• 2 cups thinly stemmed sliced fresh shiitake mushroom caps (about 3 to 4 ounces)

• 2 scallions, thinly sliced

• 1 to 2 teaspoons minced fresh or bottled ginger, to taste

• 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch or arrowroot

• 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast, optional

• 2 rounded tablespoons miso (see note)

• Freshly ground pepper and/or gochugaru to taste

Instructions

1. Combine the broth, mushrooms, scallion, ginger, and optional nutritional yeast in a small saucepan. Bring to a slow boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently with the cover ajar for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the mushrooms are wilted.

2. Combine the cornstarch in a small bowl or cup with just enough water to dissolve. Stir well and whisk into the saucepan and cook just until the gravy thickens. Remove from the heat.

3. Combine the miso with 1/4 cup water in a small bowl and whisk until smooth. Stir into the saucepan.

4. Season with pepper and serve at once or cover and heat through just before serving.

Notes

• Use your favorite variety of miso (including dark, pungent barley or hatcho). My personal preference for this gravy is for mellow white miso. Those who need a soy-free alternative will find chickpea miso a perfect choice.

• Feel free to use another kind of mushroom (cremini, oyster, portobello, etc.) in place of or combined with shiitakes.

OK, now Substack is starting to complain about the length of this post, so I’ll link you to a few more recipes for fresh shiitakes and save room for some tips on dried shiitakes.

Stir-Fried Broccoli with Shiitake Mushrooms & Cashews: Embellished with cashews and carrots, this is a delectable side dish to serve on its own or over hot cooked rice or noodles.

Winter Vegetable Miso Soup with Shiitake Mushrooms: Surprisingly substantial, this vegetable miso soup features roots, cabbage, and tofu. This flavorful, naturally vegan soup is quite warming, and more filling than the more traditional broth-y style miso soups.

Asian Noodle Soup with Tofu, Greens, & Shiitake Mushrooms: When you want to warm up quickly, here’s a soup that’s ready from start to finish in 30 minutes or less. Filled with greens, tofu, and mushrooms, it’s a lively first course.

Noodles with Fresh Shiitake Mushrooms, Napa Cabbage & Tofu: Here’s a delicious shiitake mushroom pasta recipe with an Asian spin. Embellished with napa cabbage, bell pepper, and scallions, it’s a quick noodle dish flavored with ginger, readymade teriyaki sauce, and an optional blast of Chinese black bean sauce.

Stir-Fried Bok Choy and Shiitake Mushrooms with Snow Peas: A quick, tasty recipe to serve on its own or over rice or quinoa. Bok choy and shiitake mushrooms are just made for each other, a contrast in crunch and umami.

Braised Bok Choy with Shiitake Mushrooms: Braised bok choy with shiitake mushrooms is a simple dish featuring two ingredients that are made for each other. Even with the prep, this dish takes just minutes to make.

Vegan Dirty Rice: It might seem far-fetched to transform dirty rice, a classic Cajun recipe, into a tasty vegan dirty rice. But thanks to plant-based sausage and mushrooms, it’s easy to enjoy a “clean” interpretation of the original with this hearty recipe.

What about dried shiitake mushrooms?

Though fresh shiitakes are widely available, there are also plenty of good reasons to use dried shiitakes. The better the quality of the dried shiitakes, the better your chances of achieving that much-sought quality of umami. Hannah has long been a fan of Sugimoto dried shiitake mushrooms, and lately, I’ve become one, too.

Below, just one delectable way to use dried shiitakes; you’ll find more in Umami-Rich Recipes for Using Dried Shiitake Mushrooms. All the recipes in this roundup (save the shiiitake broth were developed by Hannah Kaminsky of BittersweetBlog.com, a talented cook, writer, and photographer (she’s been my photographer for many books and much of TheVeganAtlas.com).

Try Hannah’s Vegan Shiitake Meatballs, which come together in a matter of minutes, The mixture is first steamed to become plump and juicy, then quickly seared for a crisp, golden brown exterior. They’re incredibly hearty, substantial, and won’t fall apart under pressure.

. . . . . . . . .

In other news …

• A recent podcast I guested on dropped earlier this month. On Cook the Story, it was a most enjoyable discussion on all things vegan soup!

• I hope you had a reasonably good, healthy, not-too-freezing January. Our hearts still go out to those who have suffered losses in the L.A. fires and I’m still donating to WCK (see below).

• See you on Sunday for What to Make & Eat This Week — on Ground Hog Day, yay!

A new Founding Membership level

For the retail value of the four books above (which you’ll receive in the mail if you choose this level of membership) you can be a founding member of The Vegan Atlas. For the rest of this month, I will donate profits from this level of upgraded subscriptions to World Central Kitchen, an amazing organization that fearlessly feeds people all over the world in disaster and war zones.

My Etsy Shop

Similarly, I will donate profits from sales from my Etsy Shop this month to World Central Kitchen.

******
Did you know that if you hit the heart at the bottom or the top of this post, it helps others discover my publication on Substack? Commenting and restacking is helpful, too. Thank you!)